Farther ahead of the Bara Imambara is the Rumi Darwaza which was built in 1748 by Nawab Asaf-ud- Daula as a food-for-work programme to help a population devastated by famine. The imposing gate is a classical example of Awadhi architecture and marks the entrance to Old Lucknow. Built as a replica of the Big Ben in London, the Victorian and Gothic styled Husainabad Clock Tower stands a few metres away from the Rumi Darwaza. It is the perfect place to spend an idyllic evening while sipping on hot, pink Kashmiri tea. As you absorb the tremendous history of this area, the Satkhanda (meaning, 7-storeys) presents itself like an unfinished story, leaving its reader longing for more. This incomplete, beautiful, four-storied building bears an uncanny resemblance to the famous Tower of Pisa. It was built by Nawab Mohammad Ali Shah for moon sighting and to have a bird's eye view of his city.
However, construction was stopped mid-way when the king died from climbing the stairs of his own observatory during inspection.
The Chota Imambara houses exquisite gold edged mirrors, ornamental glass chandeliers and intricate Arabic calligraphy inside a palatial dome. The area around Chota Imambara is a trove of workmanship producing some of the most opulent handicrafts of India such as chikan embroidery, mukesh, zari, zardozi and dabka works. One can head to the nearby Gol Darwaza and Aminabad markets for a blissful day of retail therapy. Popular all over India, the Aminabad market is a paradise for all brides aspiring to don a gharara — pleated wide legged pants which originated in Awadh and became the de facto attire for Muslim women in the northern region.
A visit to Old Lucknow would be incomplete without treating oneself to the soul-stirring Tunday and Galawati Kebabs or the delectable Nihari-Kulchay — their recipes invented in the royal kitchens, secretly guarded through generations and perfected over time.
